Kit for Elbrus
When it comes to kit for this trip you have to basically prepare yourself for around -10 to -25. Although you are only likely to encounter weather around -15 you never know what can happen with a sudden change in weather there. Below is a list of the basic equipment you need. And the best advice i can give you on this list is don't try to scrimp on some of the equipment or settle with second best. You will be in big trouble in these mountains if you are not properly prepared with the correct gear.
  1. Plastic boots. Essential on Elbrus due to the snow, ice and extreme cold. Look at a pair which are good for 7000 metres. I used Vasque boots which are made in Italy and did the job really well.
  2. Crampons. Best advice is a set of 12 point grivel G12's.
  3. Gortex layers. You need a good set of gortex bottoms and jacket. I recommend the RAB Extreme series which have zips running down the sides of the legs and really came in useful when you need to get some air to your legs or you are trying to cool off without having to take anything off. Plus they are hardwearing and are great in the wind because of the welded seams.
  4. Down Jacket. Having a down jacket with you can be a god send. You can wear it whilst climbing and is a very warm and welcome extra layer to put ontop of everything else whilst standing in the saddle or ontop of the summit for the picture session. This is an optional extra but really worth taking with you. I recommend the RAB Summit jacket.
  5. Gaiters. You need gaiters for this trip. Basically because the snow can really come down here and varies in depth. Wet feet mean big problems!!! Snow gaiters that cover the whole boot are the best choice but you can get away with a good strong set of normal gaiters.
  6. Gloves. When it comes to gloves you really do need to get one sort of setup. A thin layered pair of fleece gloves as the base layer and a thick mitten type glove to cover you whole hand. The further up you arm they go and more room you have inside the better. This type of gloves keeps your fingers together which produces more warmth. It's agony when your fingers come around from being numb with cold. I had this problem with normal gortex fingered gloves.
  7. Glacier goggles. You can not go without a set of glacier goggles or at least a very good set of sunglasses with side guards. You will get snow blindness here which can be very painful and very dangerous.
  8. Base layers. Base layers for your bottom half and top half are essential in keeping warm here. It pays to take more layers than you think you need and just add layers until you are happy whilst doing the acclimatisation climbs. On the summit day you should have a good idea of how many layers you will need.
  9. Thermal and fleece layers. These layers again depend on how cold you feel on the acclimatisation climbs but expect to wear one of each ontop of the base layers.
  10. Hats and balaclava's. A balaclava was one of the best thing i took with me because it really stopped the draughts you sometimes get coming through the front of your jacket. And you need a warm hat to wear ontop this.
  11. Socks. There are many types of socks in the world but the ones that stood out on this trip are the pure wool socks you can buy in the valleys. If you wear two thin layered walking socks and one pair of these socks over them, they keep your feet lovely and toasty in you plastic boots. And they are cheap to buy.
  12. Sun cream and lip seal. These are a must because of the way the suns rays are that much more dangerous at higher altitude and the way they reflect off the snow and ice. You will burn very badly if you don't apply regularly.
  13. Axe and walking poles. You need a set of walking poles for every aspect of the walking with the wider the discs on the ends the better. They really help to walk through the snow and help the knees going down. You need the axe for when you leave the saddle and head up to the summits. There is a lot of ice and steep slopes so your axe needs to be ready to pull off an axe arrest.
  14. Headlight. You will need a headlight for the first couple of hours of summit day because you usually leave around 2.30am. The Petzl headlamps are small and very bright.
Having the correct equipment means you improve your chances of reaching the summit. Then it's just down to the weather, altitude and willpower!
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Elbrus
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